Archive for May, 2007
Richard Mille RM 016 Automatic Ultra Thin
Where have I been living for the past while? I only ask because I had never heard of Richard Mille before. Should I have? It seems, on the evidence of this watch (via wriststyle), that I should have. I am righting this terrible wrong as soon as possible, and acquainting myself with this watchmaker, post-haste.
So what is it that I like about the RM 016 Automatic Ultra-Thin? First, the screws in the case. Don’t know why, but I like them. This watch has a, shall we say, functional, feel to it, and the screws serve to reinforce that. This is a watch that does. It doesn’t speak, it just does. No fancy frippery, everything you see on it is for a purpose. As if its maker chose to focus only on that which was needful.
Oh, and do you see where the date is embedded? No? Look again; where the ‘7′ should be. Marvellous work.
And I like the big numbers on the dial. This watch is saying: ‘I tell the time, deal with it!’ Full marks for the RM016 Automatic Ultra-Thin. 
Here are some specs. Movement: Caliber RM 005-S: skeletonised automatic winding movement with hours, minutes, date and adjustable rotor geometry. 31 jewels, power reserve circa 55 hours, sapphire crystal case back.
Alpina Startimer Automatic Chronograph
Now here is a smart and tasteful watch that doesn’t cost the earth. The Alpina Startimer Automatic Chronograph has been around for a short while - no, we don’t only feature new models on this blog. I like the dial; it is very busy, but because of the black and white design, Alpina pulls it off beautifully. In particular, I like the black semi-circle at the top. I would buy this watch for that alone.
Only one drawback, a minor one though: it is automatic.I have a thing for manual winding. Yes, I know, call me a conservative fogey, old before my time. It’s just one of those things. There is, to me, something terribly quaint about a manually wound watch.
That aside, if you come across this watch on your travels, give it a second glance. It is worthy of that at the very least.
This watch also comes in a stainless steel bracelet, but these do not look quite as distinctive as the leather ones.
Specs. Movement: AL Caliber 750, 28,800 vph, 25 jewels, 42 hours power reserve.
Chronometer: definition
The term ‘chronometer’ is derived from the Greek words ’kronos’ (’time’) and ‘metron’ (’measure’). For a watch to be described as a chronometer, it must meet certain precision standards.
In Switzerland, the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) conducts tests and issues certificates to watch movements that meet its standards. A watch containing a movement meeting those standards may use the term ‘chronometer’.
Here is the COSC definition of a chronometer:
‘A chronometer is a high-precision watch capable of displaying the seconds and housing a movement that has been tested over several days, in different positions and at different temperatures, by an official neutral body (COSC).’
On granting certification, the COSC issues the chronometer with a certification number.
The COSC tests are applied to watch movements (ie not completed watches) under certain laboratory conditions and for a certain period of time. They are therefore nothing to do with how a watch may then behave or perform when worn. As far as that is concerned, all the test is saying is, ‘having subjected the movement to certain tests over a specified period of time, we are satisfied that the movement passed our tests’.
Contact
If you would like to get in touch about anything regarding this blog, please use the form below, and I will get back to you as soon as possible.
BLU Duett
Via TimeZone, the latest model from BLU.
Not exactly sure what BLU were trying to do here, but at least this watch will draw plenty of attention. I like the brushed silver dial, plus the way the date is incorporated into the design, right in the middle of the Blu logo.
One thing, though. I am a fan of alligator straps, but somehow I don’t think it goes very well with the brushed silver.
Movement: Automatic, on ETA 2892 base, with modifications by Blu.
Perrelet Regulator with Retrograde hours
OK, here we go: this is simply the most arresting watch I have seen all year. And I have seen quite a few.
Perrelet have created what they describe as “[t]he world’s first automatic Regulator watch with retrograde hours with its unique combination of separate hour and minute displays”.
Some more detail from Perrelet about the retrograde hours concept:
Within Perrelet’s new, exclusive calibre P-221, manufactured in the finest watchmaking workshops in the Vallée de Joux, the ‘Retrograde Hours’ model is equipped with an impressive aperture which is split into 12 zones for the 12 hours and corresponds to half a day.
When the hour hand reaches the end of the 12th segement and the minute hands arrives in the 59 minute zone, the hour hand performs a retrograde jump, moving to the beginning of the 1st segement to resume its twelve-hour cycle until the next jump between 12:59 pm and 13:01 pm or between 00:59 am and 1:01 am. The minute hand is located in the central axis of the watch within a large counter positioned at 6 o’clock.
This model will be available in the summer, in either a pink gold or stainless steel case. I think I’ll prefer the pink gold. Watch this space, I’ll be writing an update when the watches become available.
Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver
I normally like traditional classic watches, but have always considered this watch, the Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver, to be something special. Check it out in its orange manifestation, in a 43mm stainless steel case. It is also COSC-certified as a chronometer. This watch will steal the show anywhere.
Specs: Movement: automatic UN caliber 26. Water-resistant to 300 meters, approimately 42 hours power reserve. Sapphire crystal. The strap in the one pictured here is rubber with titanium elements.
