Archive for April, 2007
Tourbillon: definition
In the days when pocket watches were more common than they are today, it was a very real problem to ensure that they kept accurate time despite the effects of gravity.
In order to address that issue, a watch escapement known as the tourbillon (French for ‘whirlwind’) was invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet. It was patented in 1801.
In simple terms, the escapement is mounted in a rotating frame, which by being in constant rotation, neutralises the effects of gravity.
These days, there is no practical need for the tourbillon as advancements in technology mean that accurate timekeeping is a lot easier to achieve. However, because of the skill etc involved in making the tourbillon, it is still used by makers of expensive watches to denote quality and skill.
Cuervo y Sobrinos Esplendidos Monopusher Chronograph
Now here is a watch that made me smile. Frankly, I have been a little underwhelmed by some of the new watches launched this week, hence not so many blog posts.
But this watch is something special. I think it’s the shape of the case that appeals to me, together with the simplicity of design. Not at all fussy. It manages to be unique without being garish or appearing overly complicated. No mean feat these days. As is clear from the name, the Cuervo y Sobrinos Esplendidos Monopusher Chronograph is a one-button chronograph. It is available in 18 carat pink or white gold.
Specs. Movement: hand-wound CS caliber 2450 by Dubois Depraz. Rosewood or silvered dial. Crocodile leather strap. Water resistant to 30 metres. Power reserve: 42 hours.
Louis Moinet Twintech
The first thing that caught my eye about this watch was the striking Louisiana alligator leather strap. But not for long. I was almost immediately drawn to the old rose dial with the rhodium plated hands. I also like the two anti-glare sapphire crystals; nice touch.
This watch was based on sketches of twin-barrel watches which Louis Moinet published in 1848. The dial is decorated with “Côtes du Jura” ® engraving and six applied zones featuring designs inspired by his original work. In addition to old rose, this watch also comes in charcoal or silver. Availability is limited to 60 pieces of each.
Specs. 120-hour power reserve due to advanced twin barrel technology. Power reserve indicator. Movement: Hand-wound; Louis Moinet Twin Barrel Manufacture caliber; 37 jewels, 28,800 vph, decorated with “Côtes du Jura” ® engraving and blued steel screws. Balance spring Elinvar with shock absorber.
Chronograph: definition
This is the first in a series of posts explaining the technical terms used by watchmakers.
A chronograph is a watch with features for short to medium interval timing. Basically, this means that a chronograph is a device that, in addition to telling the time, functions as a stop watch.
Chronographs may have either one or two pushers (buttons). In a one-button chronograph, the sole button (which could be the crown, or a specially designated button) performs the start, stop and reset functions. In a two-button chronograph, one button performs the start and stop functions, while the other resets the device.
The word ‘chronograph’ has its roots in the Ancient Greek, ‘χρονογράφος‘ (chronografos) which can be broken down thus: ‘χρόνος‘ ie chronos (time) and ‘γράφω‘ ie grafo (write), so capturing the idea of describing, or writing, time.
Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Jackpot Tourbillon
Many admiring comments about this watch, but I’m on the fence. When it comes to watches, I’m a firm believer in the “do-one-thing-at-a-time” theory. For me, a watch is about telling the time (in the widest sense of the word) beautifully and exquisitely. Nothing should really take away from that. Not even the prospect of playing slot machines in my lunch hour.
Having said that, novel concept. See the handle at the right side of the case? Pull it and watch the slot machine go into action. You get the jackpot if you end up with three bells in a row.
Movement: GIRARD-PERREGAUX GPFAY08. 21,600 v/h. Power reserve: minimum 96 hours. 18k pink gold case. Water-resistant to 30 metres. Jackpot Tourbillon under gold Bridge. Availability limited.
Vacheron Constantin Malte Chronograph
After spending some time admiring the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle Automatic, my thoughts turned to whether that is now my favourite Vacheron Constantin watch of all time.
Hmm. I think it’s a close run thing between that and the Malte Chronograph (below).
I’m not sure which I prefer. The Patrimony Traditionelle Automatic is self-winding, while the Malte Chronograph is manually wound. So that’s more marks to the Malte. That aside, they are two totally different watches, appealing to different parts of me. The Patrimony, with understated elegance, appeals to my calm, ordered nature. The Malte, on the other hand, while not exactly flash, carries with it just a hint of daring. For example, a Malte on a vicar’s wrist, and you might conclude that he preached his sermons with a bit of edge.
So the verdict. Patrimony or Malte, which is it for me? Answer: it depends on the day.
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle Automatic
What can I say? I love the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Traditionelle Automatic. Such beautiful simplicity.
Nothing more to say, this watch speaks for itself.
Ulysse Nardin Freak DIAMonSIL
Here is something from my favourite watchmakers. Out of BaselWorld 2007, the Ulysse Nardin Freak DIAMonSIL.
The unique feature of the Ulysse Nardin FREAK (launched 2001) was a silicium escapement. Ulysse Nardin then followed it up (in 2005) with the FREAK “DIAMOND HEART”, featuring an escapement made from diamonds.
The next step involved both diamond and silicium. Come 2007, and the Freak DIAMonSIL is here. The Freak DIAMonSIL in platinum is, according to Ulysse Nardin, “the first timepiece sporting a synthetic nanocrystal diamond escapement grown on a silicium raw part”.
DIAMonSIL is a new material, created by alloying silicium and diamond.
The Freak DIAMonSIL in platinum is available in Limited Edition. There are only 28 of them.
Movement: Caliber UN-200, 133/4”’; Dual Ulysse escapement in DIAMonSIL patent pending, 28 jewels, 28,800 V/h. Power reserve seven days.
IWC Da Vinci Chronograph
Shall I tell you what caught my eye about this watch? The rose gold tonneau-shape
d case. I am also much taken with the way the different dials work together.
IWC explains:
“As in the past, it measures the seconds in any one minute with the central seconds hand, but displays longer periods of time in rapidly legible form, with two analogue hands, on a single subdial. The hours and minutes of the period being timed can be read off immediately and unmistakably from a miniature watch in the dial. They no longer need to be read separately and then counted together.”
The Da Vinci Chronograph uses an in-house movement, 89360 caliber. It has a 68-hour power reserve with single barrel mainspring. In addition to rose gold, the watch is also available in platinum (limited edition, 500), white gold and stainless steel, all with crocodile leather strap. The rose gold is, to my eyes, the most striking of all.
Hublot $1m Big Bang
Don’t know about you, but the Hublot $1 million Big Bang does nothing for me. Not as a watch, anyway. I prefer to see it as an exquisite piece of jewellery. In my opinion, there are only so many diamonds this side of decadence.
That said, I can appreciate the skill that went into creating it - all 2,000 hours worth of skill.
The Big Bang employs the ’mystery setting’ technique, whereby the settings are concealed underneath the gems. You can see the diamonds, but not what holds them in place. Almost like magic.
I’m not overly keen on the rubber strap, but wise decision on their part. What else could possibly go with all those diamonds? Anything else would have clashed badly. Still has a diamond-set clasp, though.
